Snorkeling with Whale Sharks and Sea Lions in Baja: A Christmas I’ll Never Forget

In 2024, when I bought Westward and became the next in a long line of generational stewards of the now over a century-old wooden expedition yacht — the scariest part of the whole endeavor was the international portion of the operation. Providing a small ship adventure cruise in Baja California Sur. The Sea of Cortez.

I had spent much of my roaring 20s messing about in boats in Alaska’s Inside Passage and Washington’s San Juan Islands. I was entirely comfortable with that part of the operation. But this ship, built in the actual roaring 1920s as the first purpose-built Alaska expedition vessel, now also spent the winter months running holiday yacht tours in the Sea of Cortez. An important part of the business — and the journey — was figuratively and literally, in foreign waters. Gulp.

It’s not that I didn’t trust the crew. I had already sailed with most of them in Alaska and the San Juans earlier in the year. The crew were amazing, highly capable mariners and hosts whom the guests very clearly loved. I was the new guy to Baja; they were seasoned pros. Carlos, for example — our naturalist guide (and that’s an understatement of all he does) — was born and raised on these waters, every bit a part of the ecosystem as the tortugas. There were no operational issues. The source of my discomfort was purely inward. “How could I successfully oversee this operation if I am not intimate with these cruising grounds?” I’ve long understood how a correlation between comfort and control has affected my life, and that awareness was showing itself strongly right about then.

Jumping in with both feet was immediately necessary. Again, in both literal and figurative senses — on account of the snorkeling with whale sharks and sea lions.

The Baja cruising season runs from mid-December through March, when Westward returns to her home cruising grounds of Glacier Bay National Park and Alaska’s Inside Passage for the summer. Historical bookings in Mexico didn’t appear to be maxed out, especially in December. Which surprised me. Snorkeling with whale sharks in the Bay of La Paz is prime in December. Nowhere else on planet ocean do currents stack up plankton exactly like this — attracting whale sharks to the feast. Only a handful of outfitters, trained and certified to follow strict regulations, are granted access to the protected area. So why weren’t the early-season Sea of Cortez holiday cruises fully booked?

Part of the reason was likely the calendar. People may tend to head to ski for their December family vacations, not to the sea. But not always. Our holiday voyage had been booked by a family. There’s a whole cohort who doesn’t need snow and sleigh bells to close out the year. They may be small in numbers, but — just like Santa — they do exist.

And then, for reasons unknown, those guests canceled.

Private Yacht Charter in the Sea of Cortez with Family and Friends

So I had a decision to make.  I could cancel the already secured whale shark permit and furlough the crew – sending everyone home with no paycheck for the end of December.  Something I hate doing.  As I’ve said before, Pacific Catalyst is more than a small ship cruise company, it’s a job’s company.  Always has been.

Or. Do something a savvier business owner might shirk at: keep the crew employed, with no associated revenue.

I chose the latter. I brought my wife, our two young kids, my mother, and two of our closest friend-couples. We set sail out of La Paz, no schedule, no plan, just the ship and the Sea of Cortez to close out the year. A private yacht charter in Baja for our family and friends.

The good thing about bringing your little ones away from the snow for December 25th, is that Santa is the original remote worker.  For the big guy in red, work is where the chimney is. Good thing Westward still has her original wood burning fireplace as a centerpiece in the main saloon. Not that we lit a fire while it was 80 degrees out, we save that for the fjords of southeast Alaska and their tidal glaciers.

Still, having the hearth made it easy for Rudolph and the team to hover above the ship while we swung on the anchor. Old Saint Nic easily rappelled right down the stack to fill up the stockings sometime between the ringing of 3 and 6 bells. While we slept, (including the nightwatch, turns out) Santa slipped aboard unnoticed.  Just the soft jingle of something not-quite nautical. It was the kind of moment that only a ship like Westward could hold — improbable, silent, and almost unbelievable.

I look back at old photos of my siblings and me from a snowy childhood Christmas and think how special it is that my kids now have photos and video of the year they spent Christmas in Baja on a small expedition yacht.

It’s a 9-day trip we’ll keep on the booking calendar as is for anyone who wants it, but we’ll also stay flexible if you want to book the whole boat for a private charter.  Don’t want to go for all nine days? Want a round-trip Baja cruise out of La Paz, cutting out Loretto? No problem. If you’re looking for unique winter travel ideas or dreaming of a warm December getaway, we’re happy to make it work.

Why Baja Should Be Your Next Holiday Cruise Destination

A small ship cruise in Baja California Sur offers something no ski resort or city escape can: a front-row seat to one of the most biologically rich marine environments on the planet. The Sea of Cortez, often called the “Aquarium of the World,” is alive in winter. We watched bottlenose dolphins ride our bow wake. Pelicans dove like spears into shimmering bait balls. Sea lions barked from rocky outcrops. We even snorkeled beside the gentle giants of La Paz — whale sharks — while green sea turtles, or tortugas, drifted by.

Aboard Westward — with just a handful of guests and a chef in the galley whose meals rivaled any we’ve had on land — we gathered each night over soft light, wine pairings, and fresh local seafood. From mole poblano and ceviche to short ribs and scratch-made desserts, the food was as memorable as the views.

It’s not a packaged resort. It’s a warm December getaway that feeds your soul, connects you to wild places, and gives you something more enduring than stuff under a tree.